I love the ES indigo collection, including the new Miles Trouser! A pair of ‘indigo’ stretch denim Clyde pants felt like a comfy, all purpose wear for my wardrobe. New year, new pants!
Pattern: Clyde Work Pant by Elizabeth Suzann
Fabric: 7oz Stretch Stovepipe Denim from JoAnn Fabric (75% Cotton / 23% Polyester / 2% Elastane)
Size: 4 Regular
Modifications:
- Waistband elastic: The size chart says 25″. I did 27″ (cut elastic to 28 and overlapped an inch). I find that the waistband stretches out with the 2 rows of top stitching. I could have done 25-26″.
Sometimes when I make something, it feels more like a series of mistakes.
- I printed and assembled the pattern and cut out two pieces before realizing it was the wrong size (4 SHORT instead of regular)
- I sewed the back crotch seam allowance 1/8″ wider than I meant to – so I ripped it back
- After re-sewing the back crotch seam, the inseam had a 1/2″ of extra fabric causing a gap. So I ripped back the crotch seam (the seam, the top stitching, AND the seam finishing stitches).
- I found that I had cut one of the back crotch curves off about 1/2″ – so I re-traced the curve and basted the seam together and checked that the inseam matched up before re-sewing everything!
- The pockets are not aligned with each another as they should be – a small detail to notice but of course I know …
Even though I consider myself a ‘good’ or ‘advanced’ or ‘seasoned’ sewist – mistakes happen. It’s part of making things, though I wouldn’t say it’s the part I enjoy.
Other Notes on Making
SIZING
Referencing the finished garment size chart, I’m a size 4. For my previous pair of Clydes, I made a size 8 short… I have no idea why. The finished garment sizing chart is very helpful, giving a good sense of how much ease there is (compared to your measurements). I think I’m always skeptical that there won’t be enough ease and the garment will be too small and thus, unwearable. Anyhow, that is not the case with this pattern… trust the chart.
THE FABRIC
This was my first time sewing stretch denim. I found it easy to work with – no need for a walking foot and I used a denim needle and 100% polyester thread. This fabric does fray! And I wish I incorporated more of the selvedge into my cuts. I didn’t use fray check liquid, as it leaves the edges of the fabric hard/rough – which I find uncomfortable when wearing. I think a serger is the best solution to finish seams, but I don’t have one. The Clyde Pant doesn’t seem like it would work well with french seams – too much additional bulk. To finish the seams, I did the usual zig-zag stitch and hoped for the best.
Speaking of the seams – when sewing the waistband, the pocket seams are always a touch too big/bulky to fit through my sewing machine. I learned a trick in this YouTube video from SewVeryEasy. It helps to prevent the foot from being in wedge position (like < this) and to prop up the back of the foot so it remains more level as you’re about to sew the bulky seam. I used 1mm of post-it notes as my prop.
PREWASH HOT OR COLD?
The wash instructions for this stretch denim said “Machine Wash Gentle Cold, Nonchlorine Bleach, Line Dry, Cool Iron.” And a general rule of thumb is to pre-wash fabric with the settings you normally do your laundry. I was too afraid to wash hot for max shrinking because I didn’t want to end up with $40 of worthless, oddly shrunk and possibly melted fabric. I washed cold and dried on low, my normal laundry settings. I also basted the raw edges of the fabric together because I read it helps keep the denim from shrink unevenly. Seems to have worked (though I couldn’t say if it was a real issue I would have had to deal with).
STYLING THE CLYDE PANT
I feel dumb taking outfit photos inside because the light is crummy today (it’s grey and snowing outside), but I know that if I don’t take photos after I finish sewing … it’ll never happen! The thing I’m most curious about, other than any issues or tips someone might have on sewing a garment, is how do you wear your memades? Since these are basically jeans, they’re easy to style. After wearing for a couple days, I’m a little disappointed that they slide down. Anyone else have this issue with their Clydes? Or better, do you know how to fix it/avoid it (different brand of elastic, cut the elastic way shorter than your waist measurement, etc.)?
Here are the outfit details:
Outfit 1
- Patagonia Silent Down jacket
- Jamie and the Jones top
- Madewell beanie
Outfit 2
- Quince Cashmere sweater
- GLDN initials necklace
Outfit 3
- Aritzia Wilfred jacket
- Target rainbow stripe tee
- Graf Lantz Hana tote
Outfit 4
- Psuedo-silk long sleeve (from TJ Maxx)
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